Husavik, Iceland

Somehow I knew I would love Husavik before I even got there but writing about it has been difficult. I partially blame this post for my stalled blog. I loved Husavik; it is like Moab and Terlingua - those perfect little towns where you could sit happily with a journal and a cup of coffee for days. You know what I mean -- you plan one or two days to visit these little places, and then you don't want to leave. So I can't figure out why I couldn't write about it back in April when I started this post. Everything I wrote seemed lifeless and didn't do justice to Husavik, but it is time to finish and move on.
This small, northern Iceland town sits on a harbor filled with small fishing boats, whale watching vessels, and dinghies. A lovely turn of the century wooden church with a distinctive blue and green roof sits up above the harbor. Whale watching is a major attraction in Husavik, and The Whale Centre is located in a former slaughterhouse adorned with a bright but simple whale mural; it’s a lovely museum but it is overshadowed by another museum in town… Next to whale watching, Husavik is probably most famous to tourists as the new home of the Icelandic Phallogical Museum, a slightly disturbing collection of male genitalia. I think I’ll leave that there. No more needs to be said, but you can discover for yourself at www.phallus.is.

The truth is I think I love Husavik because I loved the cafe in town, the Skuld Cafe. I spent most of my time here, where a kind red-haired woman poured delightfully strong coffee in white tea cups and entertained my questions about Icelandic culture and history. The café had plenty of outdoor seating and bleacher like seats built into the hillside that looked out over the harbor. Matt and I read and drank... here, coffee came served with chocolate and a free refill.

I adore whales, and the cafe was perched perfectly over the whale watch boats. The whale watch Matt and I joined WAS amazing, and with our fancy new camera in tow, we have proof. There was a chill in the air and more than a chill in the water that splashed over the sides, so we bundled up in insulated, waterproof jumpsuits and wool mittens & hats. I saw more humpbacks breach that evening that I have seen in my entire life, and you all know how about me and whale watches. Give me some Earl Grey tea or coffee and I am ready to go whether is is 6 am or 9 pm (which you can do in the summer in Iceland!) I love them all: big boats in Boston or Hyannis, little boats in Nova Scotia, or sail boats in Iceland. The Husavik trip didn't disappoint, and I would have happily gone several more times.

Iceland is chock full of idiosyncrasies & fairy tales. It's a hard place to write about, and it is difficult for me to find words that capture it at all. Go there, but skip, or at least don't stay too long in, Reykjavik. Drive the Ring Road instead and search out the coves & geysers, icebergs & elves, waterfalls & lava flows, and herding dogs & lounging sheep. Drink coffee and sit and be content.